11 posts • Page 1 of 1
Any of you listen to the Open Road Cafe know there has been a lot of talk about specing a truck by Kevin Rutherford.
Thought I would post a few tips here also.
When I buy a truck I spec it to make me the most money. I spec it for fuel mileage and resale. Figure on paying $7000-$10,000 more a year for fuel for a classic such as a W900.
Don't want to write a book here so will keep it short.
You are better off to ordering your new truck rather than buy a truck off the lot. Lot trucks costs more due to flooring.
Be honest on how fast you want to run. It's costs a lot to regear your truck latter. In general most new truck engine OEM want you to cruise at 1325-1350 rpm. http://www.roadranger.com had a link to help you calculate this.
Lo Pro tires (2126.96.36.199) are better on fuel. Deep lug tires kill fuel mileage. SIngle tires are best.
Consider a bypass filter such as a spiner II for extended oil changes.
Consider automated transmission for resale and fuel mileage. Not to mention driver comfort.
Shop around for best deal. Once you get a price for your new truck and used truck send it to dealers around the country. Maybe be able to get more by saleing your truck yourself and having dealer show it as trade to keep from paying the tax. I used truck trader online and sold mine.
Bridgestone puts out a fuel mileage guide and Kenworth has a good site also.
If anyone want's more details or copy of my specs just email me. Mention RoundTable so I know its not spam.
any idea how much it would cost to change out my rears? According to Roadranger, I should be running a 3.08 ratio, and I have 3.55's. That might be half the reason why I am getting such crappy mileage.
Here's a formula you can use.
If you want to run 70 MPH you multiply 70 X 3.55 (ratio) X .73 Ratio on transmission Top Gear X tire revs per mile, 1100 X 24.5 =X 454 revs. divided by 60 = 1373 RPMs.
THAT'S NICE !!!!!!!!!!!!
Slow Poke, I generally like Kevin's segment of the show (he's on XM also) BUT, I disagree strongly with his theory about direct vs over drive transmissions. Kevin believes that a 10 speed Direct transmission is the ONLY way to go except, if you're pulling heavy. The biggest reason is because of what HE believes is the parasitic hp loss on an O/D transmission vs a direct drive transmission. While the hp loss is there, it is negligable (sp) and an adequately speced truck with an O/D transmission (preferrably 13 speed)will give almost the same fuel economy and will sell quicker and for more money than a truck speced with a 10 speed direct drive transmission. We've been told for years to gear fast and run slow...going back to direct drive transmissions is a step back in my estimation even with 2.78 rears.
I listen to Kevin on XM, and in general tend to agree with much of what he says regarding specs. However, I do disagree with his specific transmission choices. I tend to take the theory that where you start is your engine rpm, and work from there. Select the rpm at which you want to run the engine, select a road speed, and then work from there. It doesn't matter if you end up with a direct trans and 2.73 gears, or an overdrive trans and 3.90 gears, as long as you turn the engine at the desired rpm and run the speed you want to be at.
As for 13 speeds, over 10 speeds, it depends on where you are running and what you need to drive there. If you have a smaller hp engine and run in some hills, then a 13 speed is great if you truly know how to use one to keep the engine in the right range. If you have a bigger engine, and need the 13 speed to match the engines torque ratings, then again, fine and dandy. If you have a big enough engine and it will do the job with a 10 speed, then that works also.
As for resale value, it's the very last thing on my mind when I buy something. If I did my specs right, at the end of the time I own a truck, i should be able to walk away from it without a second glance and have already made my money. I don't believe in worrying about the specs for someone else down the line from me. If the truck brings in some money at resale time, that's all to the good, but I won't let someone else's possible needs 5-6 tears down the line have any input to a truck that I am buying for my use. I also don't assume that whoever bought the truck new foresaw me coming along some day and picked things out to please me.
It's a big world, there are a lot of used trucks out there with a lot of variety. If the first one isn't set up the way that I want it, then I move along to the next one and repeat the process until I find the right one. The guy buying from me would be well advised to do the same. My 02.
While a direct drive transmission will give you a hare better mileage, the extra torque is very hard on drive terrain. I have always had good luck with overdrive transmissions. I agree that 13 speed in a small engine may be way to go. But for the most part the 10 speed overdrive is the best. Of course there are exceptions to every case.
Another mistake people make is they get a 500 hp engine. A 475 hp engine is much cheaper and has same torque.
As for specing for resale there are some good things for you to enjoy and good resale. Top of the line interiour and aluminum wheels are a couple. On subject of Aluminum wheels, the new Dura Bright finish is way to go. Never have to polish.
Also just because a dealers book doesn't show a option you want doesn't mean it's not a available. Lots of options are not published. So your dealer has to call the factory to check.
I don't agree with Kevin Rutherford on running you truck into the ground before trading. I trade every 3 years.
As far as changeing you gearing, call your local dealer. Will be cheapest to change whole gear sets.
I just changed in Nov, brand new, out of the box, my chunks were $3800, I had a yoke and all new bearings done, an alignment and shock.... right at $5k with taxes etc.
Well I replaced my front one in Dec 04, $2200.00 over the counter, with the old rear.
I put it in myself, $100.00 for 5 gallons of synthetic oil, all told it took me and 1 other guy around 6 hours.
I agree that i don't buy in mind for resale; i plan on using the truck for 3-5 to make money and if it nets me something when i sell then fine.
I wouldn't buy anything more than 425hp and i think 10 speeds are simpler and would be less troublesome than a 13sp.
I like the automatic greasing systems. Any comments on them?
Can't see the high cost. New trucks don't have to be greased as often as they use to. Saw a Pete that has remote fittings by left front wheel.
if you buy a truck than is he a part of your life,like your wife,your children,your house.
if you like a W900,and you give some xtra away to get a engine of newest technology will it pay you that back in a two year.
you would have a hightech truck,and still the one you love.
if you buy straight away a modern truck may you come in the situation that you stay anywhere with a failure you could not fix yourselfe,as hightech truck are very complicated.
as mechaniker would i stay of a old-style W900,pete or whatever,fitted with engine and gearbox of my joice,and i am sure,till garanty runs out will i know that exactly as just be possible what tool and parts i need with me to bring the truck back home
Wisdom comes with Age.But sometimes comes Age alone.
11 posts • Page 1 of 1
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